The Wayfarer Diaries: At Rumsu en route to Chandrakhani Pass

1137 hours, 31-03-2018, Naggar, Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, India:

So I am back on the road again and headed for Chandrakhani which is a mountain pass between Rumsu/Naggar and the world’s oldest democracy Malana. Our group consists of 12 people – 8 from Pune and 4 from Shimla. We will be also joined by three porters who will carry the tents, ration and other equipment while the rest of us will be carrying our own baggage ourselves. The last member of our team is our guide Gurudev. He is quite familiar with the area as he has been in this profession for many years.

Although there are concerns about our safety as we have been told that there is too much snow on the entire pass and we won’t be able to cross over, there still is a slight hope that we might be successful.

We have reached Rumsu which is about 2 km from Naggar and is the last settlement on the trail. The trail uptil now has been a decent climb on a gradual slope through apple orchards, fields and Deodar forests. Looking at the mountains around us with their peaks covered in snow, we can well imagine what the situation is going to be near the pass. The weather is clear and hot but the cold wind blowing down the mountain tops is making it comfortable to walk under the sun. There still are a lot many old houses in the village, built with wood, and the rest with stone, including the roof. But the view is just magical. Today we will be trekking 8-9 km uphill and set up camp at Naya Thapru or nearby.

WM Rumsu 03

Naggar Castle; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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Pagoda styled Tripura Sundari Temple in Naggar. The famous Nagar Shalli festival is also held here every year during the month of May; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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Blooming apple orchard along the way; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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Apple flowers in pink and white, enjoying the warm sunlight; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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Arriving at Rumsu to the sights of a woman washing clothes outside her house; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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Cattle fodder storage arrangements in Rumsu; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

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The high mountains are calling yet again; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal


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